Karen Fawcett

E-mails to Bonjour Paris are a good barometer as to what readers are thinking and doing. No, we’re not a branch of the French Tourist Office, but, come to think of it, some days, we’d be hard pressed to deny we’re not doing some of its work.

Because we answer all e-mails (some might even accuse the B.P. staff—or me—of being compulsive), people fire off at all hours and expect an immediate response. And more than likely, they’ll receive one within twelve hours. How we wish we could be online 24 hours a day, but it simply isn’t realistic.

One thing that’s glaringly apparent is that people are going to France. Contrasted with a few years ago, frequently it’s last-minute travel. It’s almost as if people can’t stand it anymore and are being seduced by last-minute deep-discounted airfares and hotel-booking sites that are offering rooms at affordable prices.

Business travelers are coming to France now and want information about less expensive digs or where to rent an apartment if they’re staying for a week. Even though the economy is in the tank, executives appear to be realizing that occasional face-to-face contact and shaking hands is a necessity if you’re going to get a job done. Can we suggest less expensive restaurants where to take clients? Make reservations? And yes, they’re leaving for Paris tomorrow afternoon.

Examples of emails we’ve received—and these are the tip of the iceberg:

A recently married woman is coming to Paris and realizes her passport hasn’t been changed to her married name. Theresa sent an email asking, “Didn’t I think she’d be OK if she showed up at the airport with a marriage certificate and a driver’s license that have her ‘new’ name in addition to her passport.”

I shot back an “absolutely not.” She could chance it, but I’d be a nervous wreck getting in and out the US and into France. Perhaps she’d succeed, but my stomach would be tied up in knots. Theresa called the help desk at the airline and, since they’d yet to issue the ticket, they were willing to issue it in her maiden name. Whew.

Another reader sent an e-mail from a man who realized his passport would expire in three months and he’d be fine? Again, off went a reply he didn’t want to hear that included the names of a few companies that expedites visas and new passports.

During my recent travels, I’ve noticed when I’m traveling from one country to another, the person checking my ticket against my passport always looks at the expiration date. Even though this passport and visa site includes all of the information any American traveler could want and need, people don’t always want to take the time to do the research themselves. Who blames them?

Some airlines may allow you to check in online (United does for a fee—at least for U.S. citizens departing from Paris), but since I’m a French resident and my plane tickets originate in France, every time I return to France I have to show the ticket agent my Carte de Séjour, because no one is legally allowed to remain in France without a visa for more than three months. I live in fear that I might misplace that plastic card because I’d be persona non grata.

Another notable e-mail: Susan and John sent one telling me they were planning to bring their miniature Yorkie to Paris since the city is so dog friendly. That’s true. But they assumed they wouldn’t have any trouble sneaking Fidoette on the plane since she’s so tiny and never made a peep buried in Susan’ purse.

I literally called this couple to tell them that they’d better find a puppy sitter or they might be faced with having their baby confiscated while going through security in the U.S. or in France. All animals are required to have specific vaccines, tests, I.D. chips, and a clean bill of health issued by a veterinarian who’s authorized to complete an international health certificate.

On top of that, they’d need to make a reservation for their canine companion and pay between $200-$250 each way (depending on the airline) for the privilege of allowing Fidoette to come to the City of Light.

Some readers probably think I’m exaggerating. How I wish I were.

Now it’s your turn to ask questions. Please register HERE if you need a user name and password and ask away.

There’s no such thing as a (really) stupid question. It’s better to appear silly than end up in another country not knowing what to do where.

Sacre bleu! No one thought it could ever be done but they were wrong. The French government passed a no-smoking law that took effect in early 2007, which banned smoking in public spaces. Now it has spread to restaurants, bars and hotels.

Today, groups of people now huddle together outside of office buildings, looking like refuges, sharing a lighter and puffing away. A definite sense of ‘us against them’ solidarity has developed.

Offices are no longer allowed to have a smoking area for the addicted. Smokers are out fresh out of luck — even in the rain and frigid weather, they are forced to brave the elements come hell or high water.

The French restaurant lobby fought mightily and the ban wasn’t enforced in cafés and restaurants until January 2008.

Some chefs and restaurateurs opted to go non-smoking earlier, for the sake of their food and attracting a clientele who felt strongly about not having their taste buds deadened by the smell of tobacco.

Well – it’s come or is coming. Many Parisian hotels have decided to ban smoking and no longer even have one or two smoking rooms. Even though large hotels may have some designated smoking rooms, many smaller hotels have gone the non-smoking route and the management is serious. If you’re caught smoking on the premises, they are entitled to fine you.

Soon Paris may be like Boston where smoking inside any hotel room is forbidden.  Katherine Johnstone, Media Relations Manager of the New York Office of ATOUT FRANCE (the France Tourism Development Agency), says that’s definitely the trend and projects all hotels will be non-smoking in the very near future.

Not believing this could be possible in a country where so many people still smoke (albeit a diminishing number since cigarettes cost approximately $7.50 a pack) I popped into a number of hotels in Paris and confirmed that smokers are out of luck. If they have a nicotine attack in the middle of the night, if they don’t have a room with a balcony, (and shut the doors to the room) occupants will have to go outside in their pajamas.

Look at the fine print of many hotel registration forms; it’s frequently noted that if you smoke in the room, there will be a substantial fee to have it deep cleaned and you might even be responsible for buying new curtains and more.

In an informal survey, people responded they have zero tolerance or sympathy for smokers and feel they should be fined and made to pay for a complete deep cleaning of the room.  Opening up an Air-Wick bottle or spraying L’eau de Cover up doesn’t mask the odor.

Smokers said they didn’t want to stay in smoking rooms. It’s one thing to smoke— it’s another to have all of your clothes and hair permeated by cigarette smells.

Having stated the above, it’s interesting that many cafés have extended their terraces because they’re considered exterior space, and awning companies and space-heater suppliers have never done brisker business.

If there’s only a narrow sidewalk, expect to see a few tables and chairs butt up against the façade of many restaurants.  If the restaurant is adjoining a business that closes early for the night, weather permitting, you’ll see tables migrating down in front of them. And it’s not because everyone is dying to eat al fresco.

Does anyone have any sympathy for the addicted? Smoking is harmful and if you read the literature, it has no positive effects. Still there are smokers. Should they be treated as lepers?

As someone who has kicked the smoking habit more times than I care to admit, should I start smoking again, will I be a social outcast and have to move to China where smoking is accepted? I look forward to reading your responses.

Karen Fawcett is president of BonjourParis.

There’s no one answer. The 5-Star hotel and restaurant standards varies for different people depending on personal requirements and expectations. There’s no question that some part of a 5-Star ranking is subjective. But here’s a summary of a few musts and there are additional criteria.

1 – Service that makes people feel like stars and important. It’s when the staff gives you the feeling they love their work and it’s not simply a job — that’s 5-Star. They genuinely want to please guests and if it means going out of their way and doing something extra, the client won’t know if it’s an imposition.

2 – Hotels where the staff is impeccably dressed and caters to clients’ needs and wants. For example, high tea being served using silver and perfectly white pressed linen. Cocktails should be served on a tray accompanied by cloth cocktail napkins and well-presented hor d’oeuvres.

3 – Cleanliness and décor are big 5-Star factors plus total attention to detail. There’s nothing like a room with a wonderful view where the bed linens are ironed and there are flowers. The bathrooms should be elegant and you shouldn’t have to grope for the soap or be confronted by scratchy towels. Noise from the hall or adjoining rooms should not be heard.

4 – Five-star service requires an effort on the part of the staff to understand the individual being served and to specifically tailor the service so that he or she feels completely at ease.

5 – The 5-Star service is uninterrupted by negotiation or by the customer having to explain or educate the personnel about their expectations. A five star establishment has already calibrated its service to the highest level.

6 – Every 5-Star restaurant is flawless when it comes to food and service. A large staff serves the courses but they’re choreographed to make it seem as though only one person waiting on you. There is no noise or bumping into other dining room personnel as wine is poured or during the meal. Guests aren’t rushed but when they ask for the bill, it should be processed in a timely manner.

7 – With 5-Star service the staff is more than gracious, always smiles, is willing to go more that all out to please clients, anticipates their needs and follows up. For example, I was bowled over when I returned to one hotel after a two-year hiatus and it had a VERY soft pillow in my room when I arrived. Plus, there was a yogurt waiting for me each night because I take a medication that requires it at bedtime. I didn’t have to ask because it was entered in the hotel’s data bank. I call that impressive since how could they know I’d ever return. And even more amazingly, I was treated as if I were a regular.

Now it’s your turn to add what makes a hotel or a restaurant a 5-Star experience for you.

Karen Fawcett is president of BonjourParis.

If your travel plans include a trip to France after July 1st, you’re going to be in for a cost savings treat when you go out to restaurants and the bill is presented. But be forewarned — the discount will only apply to certain dishes (such as the menu of the day) and you won’t be raising your wine glass in celebration of the reduction since it’s not applicable to alcohol.

France’s President Nicholas Sarkozy has instructed the country’s estimated 200,000 restaurant owners to pass on a portion of the 19.6 percent VAT (value added tax) that will be reduced to 5.5 percent. France has one of the highest tax rates in the European Union.

For years, this has been a bone of contention among hoteliers and restaurateurs, who said the added cost discouraged consumers by inflating meal costs. The high taxation has also been an impediment for hotel and restaurant owners, as well as potential ones, who want to invest in the hospitality industry.

Sarkozy is banking on the reduction giving a needed boost to restaurateurs who are feeling the effect of the weakened economy. French residents are cutting back on meals out and tourists are eating out less or at less expensive restaurants. Restaurants and bistros have lost between 20 and 50 percent of their income between January and March. Many have introduced more modestly priced “crisis menus” to lure patrons back.

It’s also anticipated more workers will be hired and it will give France’s restaurants a jump-start. Sarkozy’s campaign promises included this cut and he’s making good on it. The tax-cut agreement includes a commitment by restaurant and hotel owners to work with the government to improve pay, training, and working conditions.

Christine Pujol, President of the Union des Métiers et des Industries de l’Hôtellerie, the largest industry union says, “We’ve been working for 15 years for this and we’re most satisfied. It will provide a needed boost.”

Some critics feel the cut may not be judicious in the long run. It’s easy to lower taxes but hard to subsequently raise them.

Something of something is a whole lot better than a lot of nothing or having to shutter a restaurant’s doors.

Chain restaurants may have a bit of a cushion but what about privately owned establishments? No matter where you live, people are feeling an economic pinch and many are buying frozen pizza at the grocery store rather than ordering carry-out or taking the family out to dinner.

In the meantime, enjoy the savings. Don’t anticipate not having to tip the service staff.  You’ll still be expected to leave them 15 percent – and more if you think it’s merited.

Do you think restaurants in the US will follow suit if they haven’t already?

Karen Fawcett is president of BonjourParis.

You’re traveling with hungry kids whose stomachs aren’t precisely timed to breakfast, lunch and dinner. They’re hungry whenever, and frequently, at inopportune times.

Here are some suggestions as how to return home from your vacation with some coin in your pocket. Remember, fast food isn’t free food; anything but.

Go inclusive: Take an all-inclusive vacation where food’s available for the asking. Many cruises offer nearly non-stop meals and appear to have on-going buffets. All-inclusive resorts do the same.

Breakfast is important: If you’re not renting an apartment, stay at hotels where breakfast is included. Instruct the kids to get a good start on the day and bulk up. Most hotel staff members are gracious and agree (if you ask) to give you extra fruit to take with you as you embark on the days’ excursions. Do request a refrigerator be in the room.

Carry snacks: Never leave your lodgings without a stash of power bars and drinks. Some people visit Costco or other bulk chain stores and stuff the corners of their suitcases with these high protein snacks.

Go fixed-price, or free for kids: Surf the Internet and see which restaurants offer fix-priced lunches, early-bird specials and free meals for kids.

Clip coupons: Many restaurants offer discount coupons. They may be accessible on the Web. Or inquire at your hotel, check the local papers and the town’s Chamber of Commerce.

Snap up happy-hour specials: Some bars lure people in during happy hours when they serve more than adequate food and reduced priced drinks. Just because your charges are underage, doesn’t mean they can’t have yummy non-alcoholic drinks and eat at the same time.

Plan a picnic: It goes without saying that picnics are godsends and hotels (especially in the U.S.) are generous when it comes to allowing you to fill a Styrofoam chest with ice. Go to the local grocery store and buy all the makings for a picnic. During nice weather, it can be a wonderful way to eat and enjoy nature simultaneously.

Fabulous fruit: Eat a piece of fruit before your stomach screams empty. Grocery stores have plenty and if you happen to be at a local market in Europe at closing, many vendors sell at a big discount, rather than having to pack them up.

All you can eat: Look for restaurants (and many of them are “ethnic”) that offer refills. Moroccan restaurants frequently keep bringing out trays of couscous until you’ve had more than your fill.

Street food: Some of the best food (and most reasonably priced) is found in street markets where locals eat. There are certain rules that must be followed to avoid possible Montezuma’s revenge.

• Never drink the water (or any drink) unless it’s come from a bottle that’s been completely sealed. Use straws rather than drinking directly out of the bottle.

• Eat food only if you watch it being cooked and the hotter the pan, the better. A discerning eye can spot how sanitary the conditions are and it’s important to be careful. It’s amazing what foods children will try and more than likely enjoy it.

• Use sanitized hand wipes before and after eating.

If this sounds risky, remember your kids are probably eating more dangerous food when they’re munching on hotdogs purchased at school bazaars.

What suggestions do you have for stretching your food budget when vacationing?

Karen Fawcett is president of BonjourParis.

For people who want to know about the (alleged) best restaurants and hotels in various countries, the Michelin Guide is more than likely their culinary and hotel bible. Or one of them.

People who happened to be passing Paris’s Musée d’Orsay yesterday might have thought the Academy Awards were taking place. The area was filled with police and there were dozens of satellite broadcast trucks, so the press could announce the newest winners (and losers) of the much sought over Michelin stars.

France has twenty-six three-star restaurants. There’s only one new addition this year and it’s been awarded to 45-year-old Eric Frechon, head chef at the tres chic and expensive Bristol Hotel. Frechon has already worked in the restaurant business for 32 years and has done everything from mop floors to cook for royalty and France’s President Nicolas Sarkozy. Sarkozy’s home is literally a three-minute walk to the hotel.

But as Paris is feeling the economic crisis and even the very rich have been cutting back when it comes to eating out and opting to go to less expensive restaurants. Frechon wagers this star will insure every table is booked as they were in the past.

This year was the 100th anniversary of the publication of the Michelin Guides that are printed by the tire company. During the two world wars, the guides were put on hold. Inaugurated in France, Michelin now publishes guides covering twenty-three countries and forecasts further expansion. As of this year, the information is now accessible via mobile phones including the iPhone by accessing Michelin as well as the Internet.

In addition to the 548 starred restaurants, Michelin’s 2009 French edition has awarded 527 restaurants a “Bib Gourmand.” That designation signifies restaurants that offer good value for money. These meals cost no more than €35 (without wine). They are where I’ll be eating when I’m not eating pasta in the kitchen.

Karen Fawcett is president of BonjourParis.

With the economy at an all time low since the depression, what are corporate executives doing to cut costs and still generate business? If they’re going to ask staff members to hold back, many believe they should set an example.

Many executives have adopted the mantra that they need to spend money as if it’s their own. If it is, now’s not the time to flaunt it even if they have it.

The days of chartering private jets are on hold unless there’s no way you can get from here to there without spending days away from the office in the process of competing for a mega-buck contract.

Some executives justify flying business class if they can depart early in the morning and sleep all the way to their destination with the proviso the aircraft’s seats are sufficiently comfortable. More than one person states he or she takes the first flight departing New York City for Los Angeles or San Francisco and returns after dinner (on the West Coast) essentially packing two days into one.

Other road warriors have resorted to using frequent-flier miles to upgrade (if they can). No more accumulating them as a perk for family vacations. Now’s the time to utilize affinity/airline programs, hotel programs and other incentive programs such as credit card points.

Try to avoid last minute travel since it tends to be more expensive especially if you lack flexibility when it comes to the date and the time. Book as early as possible if you know of an upcoming trip. Some business travelers might stay over a Saturday night if the meeting is on Friday and the destination is interesting. But few bosses insist that employees do so, since they respect that people need weekends to be with their families. Now’s not the time to add additional stress to marriages which invariably are already experiencing pressure.

Executives appear to be unanimous about analyzing whether or not the trip is essential. They may prefer face-to-face meetings. But frequently there are times a conference call will suffice.

Where entertainment/meals are valuable in building and nurturing relationships, executives say they’ll continue to wine and dine. But they no longer feel it’s essential to impress people by entertaining at the newest or most expensive restaurant in town.

Other money savers: Stay in the company’s best rated hotel that’s as close as possible to office where the meetings are taking place, and if possible, walk rather than taxi. Savvy travelers try to stay in the same hotel group to amass points that can be converted into free room nights.

Some people are staying at mid-major hotels, making sure the value they’re getting matches their business needs. An executive explained, “Once we’re in a conference room for meetings, we can’t tell whether the room is in the Ritz or a Marriott Courtyard or, for that matter, whether we’re in Fort Lauderdale or Fort Worth.” Try to group trips, especially if international travel is involved. Intra-Europe travel usually can be booked relatively inexpensively.

It’s a whole new and challenging world in the realm of travel cutbacks. How are you coping?

Karen Fawcett is president BonjourParis.

The International Herald Tribune ran an article this past weekend about a new dance that’s taking place. At the power lunch, the check is kryptonite. Clearly not everyone is frequenting the Beverly Hill Hotel. But entertaining budgets have come under scrutiny during these difficult economic times.

There are occasions when you have to spend big bucks to close a deal. But it’s time to be creative and make subtle cutbacks. Be sure you factor in cultural mores when conducting business in other countries.

Most people believe the person who does the inviting should pick up the tab. But they’re are looking for less expensive options. Some suggest patronizing a favorite restaurant and asking the owner or the manager for a discount since times are tough. The hope is that some members of the group will return once they’ve eaten there so it may serve as public relations for future business.

A business owner with whom I spoke said he doesn’t want to give the impression that money is no object when businesses are so bottom-line conscious.

Others suggested a pre-fixed lunch menu with limited choices. When it’s a large group, would the restaurant be willing to comp one or two of the group? Or throw in free desserts and coffee?

Another thought – there’s no mandate business has to be done over lunch. How about breakfast or mid-morning coffee? Another option is having a catered lunch sent into the office and eating (and discussing business) in the conference room.

Some say they’re inviting business guests to lunch in a pub. One caveat: Be sure your table is situated in an area where you can hear people speak and diners don’t leave with headaches.

If you’re entertaining an out-of-town colleague or a potential client, inviting them to dinner at your home may be one way to make a friend forever. Before doing so, be sure it’s an inviting and conducive environment. If there are children running around the dinner table, your good intentions may end up going down the tubes…and fast.

What advice can you offer as to how to entertain without declaring bankruptcy?  This is war.

Karen Fawcett is president of BonjourParis.

Some people are putting traveling on hold and not going any place that isn’t 100 percent essential.

Welcome to the world of video conferencing and talking via Skype or other programs such as Go to Meeting.

But there are times when business people need to sit down together and make personal contact. The challenge is how to make meetings more cost effective.

Here are some options:

1. Surf the Internet for the least expensive airfare and decide whether or not you’re willing to stay at one of the suggested hotels and rent a car (if needed). Package deals often save money.

2. Some people are opting to stay at less expensive hotels. “Residence” ones, where you can eat some meals or have a drink without going to the bar or the restaurant are cost effective. More than likely, there’s a grocery/liquor store within striking distance.

If you’re traveling on business, ask your client to suggest a hotel. If it’s the pits, you can book another. Make sure it’s close to where you’ll be conducting meetings or make sure there is direct public transportation.

3. The days of having a car and driver waiting have become an extreme luxury. Ask the receptionist to arrange for a taxi to meet you when you’re leaving a meeting.

Some people suggest their colleagues or clients meet them at the airport, and/or pick them up and drop them off each day at the hotel. It saves on rental cars and taxi fares. Plus, it insures you get to meetings at the scheduled hour. In addition, the commuting time can be used to discuss business.

4. If you have to host a meal, arrange to hold it at a restaurant and offer your guests a fixed menu with two to three choices for each course. That way, you’ll be spared from having to ante up for the person who decides he or she craves lobster. Plus, it saves time not having to discuss who’s eating what.

Some people pack their own food ranging from power bars to pre-packaged food. That saves money and can be eaten on the run. There’s nothing like having nuts or trail mix to satisfy middle-of-the night munchies. Whatever you do, stay away from the mini-bar.

5. One friend told me she is now willing to share a room at a conference. Sue said she would never have considered that before but it’s a real cost saver and she’s met some terrific people. I wouldn’t share a room with a stranger — but that’s me.

Welcome to 2009 and being creative when it comes to saving money. Your job may depend on it as well as whether or not you win the contract.

What compromises are you willing to make when you take business trips?

Karen Fawcett is president of BonjourParis.

When the time comes to settling up their bills, even savvy travelers develop amnesia about tipping.

Should you tip taxi drivers, leave a monetary “thank you” for hotel maids or shell out something extra for the room service waiter when a surcharge has already been added to the tab?

How much does a doorman deserve if he hails a cab that happens to be waiting smack in front of the door?

Is a tip merited if passengers are climbing out of the car in time for you to climb in?

Do you cross his palm each and every time the doorman stands at attention holding an umbrella to protect you from deluges of rain?

What about the battalion of concierges who accomplish impossible feats? These men and women definitely are some of the best-connected in any city’s top hotels. They’re famous for snagging impossible-to-get reservations at restaurants, tickets for sold-out plays and other cultural events.

For special clients and tokens of appreciation, a definite underground exists. Clients know better than to ask specifics. Instead, they’re appreciative of miracles in the same way a child is when a magician mysteriously pulls a rabbit out of a black satin top hat.

Do you tip him or her as you check into the hotel — or when you’re leaving?

That depends on whether or not you’re a regular. If you are, dollars to doughnuts the concierge will have already reserved a better room than newcomers might receive. Yes, some quarters (not to mention bathrooms) are definitely better than others. Contrary to the photos on the hotel’s site, assume its marketing department knows better than to showcase the worst room and has no compunction when photographers use wide-angle lenses. What may look like a perfectly satisfactory room can be situated so close to the elevator or the storage room that getting an uninterrupted night’s sleep is a challenge.

It’s as if there’s a pipeline among hotel employees as to who’s a good tipper and who’s not. Those who are (amazingly) merit extra service.

Even though the general manager’s office would be unhappy to hear this, my experience has always been that when I ask the housekeeper for an extra washcloth or two and reward her with a bit of pocket money, I don’t need to ask on subsequent days. Being a maid in a hotel invariably is an entry-level, low paying job and what are peanuts to you, can make a difference in that person’s standard of living.

The debate as to when it’s appropriate to leave a few extra coins or bills is ongoing. Don’t take what some guidebooks advise as gospel and use the advice as rules of thumb. There are so many variables.

There’s no right or wrong; there may be recommendations, but consider them precisely that. Nothing is carved in stone and before you know it, there’ll be a new set of rules. And please don’t think that the dollar and the Euro are at parity. If only that were the case. Tip according to the country where you are.

In Paris, for example, tips are included at restaurants — allegedly. Unless the place is a dive and there’s no service, don’t stiff the waiter if you want to return. It’s amazing what great memories service personnel have.

The same is true in other EU countries. But in Italy, Spain and some other countries, there’s a cover charge for just occupying the table and having a roll plunked in front of you. Don’t expect a rebate if you don’t want bread and tell the waiter to take it back to the kitchen. Once you sit down, the table as well as the cover charge are yours.

In this era of the strong Euro and pitifully weak dollar, EU residents are flocking to the US to shop until they drop and to take advantage of the “good” life. Don’t be surprised if you see a notice on menus in multiple languages announcing that service isn’t included.

Restaurant owners and managers are well aware their staff’s take home pay is predicated on tips. Some places will even add a “suggested” tip, as if tourists and business people forget their math skills when leaving home.

When I was last in China, the taxi driver refused a tip because they’re illegal and each cab is equipped with a tiny microphone. When I later traveled to Hong Kong, I tried exiting the cab without tipping.  It’s a miracle my hand wasn’t slapped.

We may not have been speaking the same language but there are times that a shared language isn’t a necessity. It’s amazing what looks can convey. A glare is worth a thousand words and I reached into my wallet as quickly as I could. The idea of being tarred and feathered lacked appeal.

What are some of your hints when it comes to tipping?  Undoubtedly, there are a thousand variations and permutations.

Karen Fawcett is president of Bonjour Paris.