Karen Fawcett

Few tourists travel all the way to India and not see the Taj Mahal.  It’s truly one of the wonders of the world.

We made the strategic decision not to take the high speed “ultra-deluxe” train from Delhi to Agra and its Taj Mahal. The idea of having to get up in time to make the 6:00 am train lacked appeal. There weren’t a lot of choices since only one such train a day makes the run to and from Agra, and at inconvenient times for our travel itinerary.

We opted for a car and driver. That cost little more than the train and it let us wallow a few hours longer in the luxury of New Delhi’s Taj Mahal Hotel.  The drive to Agra took over four hours (vs. 2 ½ hours by train). But when we factored in travel to and from the train station, sitting in the waiting room and arranging for storage of luggage we didn’t want for our one day in Agra, the time was about the same. Plus, with a car we’d have the option of taking roads not usually explored.

The car was great and so was the driver. But we had to share the road with a mind-boggling assortment of vehicles and beasts. Buses of all sizes, shapes and degrees of dilapidation…trucks ditto, and usually overloaded to ridiculous heights…carts pulled by camels or oxen or mules or donkeys…cars, motorcycles, scooters and bikes darting about with heart-stopping bravura…pedestrians crossing the road wherever and whenever… and, oh yes, an occasional cow or water buffalo moping along or simply lying down in the middle of traffic, confident in the knowledge they were sacred to Hindus. And this was on a toll road!  When we asked our driver if all that was legal, he simply explained that it wasn’t – but “fines” paid in cash helped the police supplement their less than satisfactory incomes.

We made one rest stop – in the town of Mathura, which happens to be the birthplace of Krishna, one of India’s major deities. There is a large (and painfully gaudy) temple to him there, and the road to it was flanked by the usual array of souvenir shoplets, as well as animals large and small. Amid the visual cacophony there was one symbol of order: a gaggle of schoolgirls all in identical spanking-clean uniforms (and all giggling at the unaccustomed sight of two Westerners wondering on their street.)  Just next to Krishna’s shine stood a Mosque. The town itself was primitive and visitors are well advised to import baby wipes and Purell.  Sanitation in much of India has a lot to be desired. But, as an insatiable traveler, I don’t like missing the entire underbelly of a country and how the society really lives.

My husband doesn’t like to hire drivers but admitted there’s no way he’d navigate the chaos of Indian traffic. There are no rules of the road or lanes. If there are street lights or traffic signs, people ignore them. There were occasional police standing in the middle of the road waving flickering red battery-lit batons. I wonder how many per year are killed in the line of duty while futility attempting to direct cars (and any and all other forms of transport) from here to there.

There wasn’t too much to see at the sides of the road. An occasional small temple, clumps of tiny stores apparently all selling the same things, a few factories, fields of sugar cane and safflower plants (where there was water for irrigation) and stretches of scrubby desert (where there wasn’t). Rajasthan gets rain in torrents for a month or so in summer, and that’s about it. Ground water is either absent altogether or so deep (3000 feet down or more) that drilling artesian wells is impractical. In a country where millions go hungry and the land reminded us of Provence, we saw no fig trees, grape vines, olive trees or other draught-resistant crops. We did drink a more than decent Indian Shiraz but it must have been from another part of the country.

When we finally got to Agra we were rewarded: our hotel (the Oberoi Amervilas) was stunning – built a few years ago but in the traditional Rajasthan style, long and low with lots of cupolas, pavilions and terraces – all in calm beige sandstone. As in so many luxury hotels in Asia, there was service staff galore, well trained and courteous to a fault. My husband who likes spicy food thought the meals were great. I instead had to stick to yoghurt and steamed rice – about the only things on the menu that didn’t send my stomach into convulsions.

Hotel rooms were large and supremely comfortable. There was complementary fruit and beverages waiting for us when we arrived and replenished the next day. Though the hotel was full – November is high season in India – the whole place is so spacious and well thought out that we felt as we were practically the only ones there. In the evening the hotel’s guests were treated to a concert of classical Indian dance on the roof of the pool pavilion (every room faced toward it and the Olympic-size heated pool.

This hotel has something more and no one can take it away. It has a bird’s eye view of the real Taj Mahal. Everywhere you go in the hotel takes your breath away. The adage, “location, location, location has no truer meaning than here.

Lovely as the hotel was, the major reward of our trip was the Taj Mahal (“great stone” in Hindi) itself. It was built as the tomb of a 16th century Moghul emperor’s beloved wife (the third one – the other wives were buried in more modest circumstances.) It’s an amazing building – all in white marble decorated with semi-precious stone inlays forming traceries of vines and flowers.

The scale of the building is impressive: from the paved terrace to top of the principal dome it’s about 250 feet, and there are minarets and gates and secondary domes, all in perfect symmetry. The main architect was imported from Persia, as were many of the stonemasons and inlay artists.

We could see it looming large over the city from our hotel room. The sight was made even more romantic by the pollution haze that hovers over Agra. In fact, for the final leg of our drive to the Taj Mahal we had to change from our diesel car to an electric golf cart – the only vehicles allowed to come near it, to help cut down pollution damage to the building.

The Taj Mahal is more than a great building – it’s now the main raison d’etre of the city of Agra with its over one million inhabitants. Agra was once the capital of Rajasthan, but now its economic life depends directly or indirectly from Taj Mahal and the millions of tourists who come to see it each year (foreigners pay an admission fee of 750 rupees each – about $16 dollars). The city produces and sells the stuff that tourists tend to buy there – textiles, jewelry and handicrafts (especially table tops, boxes and other objects of inlaid marble usually made by descendents of the artisans who built the Taj Mahal.)

We left the following morning for our tedious drive to Delhi’s airport and our evening flight to Hong Kong, replete with India’s sights and sounds: its sumptuous monuments and teeming markets, the luxury hotels and stores – and the insistent but never threatening children or young mothers who tapped on our car windows or followed us around when we walked, hoping for a handout (which we had been warned over and over not to give, lest we find ourselves surrounded by other needy hands.)

As we were told by friends who lived in India for some months, and came back to Paris entranced by their time there, “India is a life-changing experience.” They were right.

Spending an evening with super chef Michel Richard is enough to make anyone who loves food; its preparation and presentation know they’ve experienced an evening they’ll never forget. This isn’t solely from a culinary point of view but because his character and physique are bigger than life. He clearly enjoys his own food, sports a Santa Claus beard and possesses passion.

Michel Richard roars when he’s happy, when workers in the kitchen aren’t working up to his extraordinarily high standards or if anything goes wrong in the front of the house. Perfection is his mantra and he’s impatient when anything less is produced. He’s determined….

Michel’s colleague, public relations consultant Mel Davis, who also happens to be a member of “Women Chefs and Restaurateurs,” laughingly says, “Michel’s bark is worse than his bite.”  But, she makes no bones that keeping up with him takes an incredible amount of energy and has been doing precisely that since 2000.

Citronelle, Michel Richard’s restaurant, is located in a hotel on M. Street in the Georgetown neighborhood of Washington, DC. There’s no question it would compete with any of Paris’s three star eateries. It’s obvious he pushes himself and his staff to achieve greater perfection. But the chef is quick to say that his ambition isn’t to cook solely French food. “It’s to understand what Americans like and what they are eating. For example, it’s a misconception that people don’t indulge in butter and cream. When they eat at Citronelle, diners from the East Coast, love butter.”

The interview took place on the terrace (rather, sidewalk) just outside of Citronelle. Upon meeting, he greeted me with, “Bonjour Cherie” while simultaneously waving for the waiter to bring a bottle of champagne. He was celebrating his newly released book, “Happy in the Kitchen” and getting ready to embark on a promotion tour. “Life is good” he said as photographer Clay McLachlan started snapping . The camera lens loved the chef and people, who happened to be walking by, stopped as if Michel Richard were surrounded by paparazzi. Many came over to the table to pay their respects, while at the same time, Michel eyes were darting. “I love beautiful women,” he confessed with a twinkle in his eyes. It was obvious they adore him considering the amount of bises (kisses) being exchanged.

As tiny plates of the chef’s newest creations were placed in front of us (not to mention constant refills of our flutes of champagne), the conversation took on a bit of a debate. Was I hearing this chef with his very French accent say, “Americans don’t embrace French chefs and food in the same way they do Italian counterparts”?  Didn’t he miss the ingredients he was able to obtain in France?  “Mais non,” he said, extolling the virtues of local ingredients such as superior crab meat and scallops. Citronelle buys its beef from a supplier in upstate New York and he claims great cheeses aren’t exclusively French.

The food guru explained that when he and his colleagues find great suppliers, it’s in all of their interests to patronize them.

Michel Richard’s pilgrimage to becoming one of the most revered chefs in the world had many twists and turns. He was born in Brittany in 1948. Post-war life wasn’t easy and only after he spent Easter vacation with a schoolmate, whose father owned a restaurant, did he develop an idea of what he wanted to do as an adult. When he was 17, he became a pastry chef and ultimately ended up working for Gaston Lenotre, whom he credits for giving him his start. From that time on, food took on new meaning for Michel. It was a gift he had to create that he was compelled to share with others.

In 1974, Michel moved to New York City to open Lenotre’s first US pastry shop, which had a short run, failed financially and closed.  On he went to Santa Fe, New Mexico where he constructed his creations in much the same way as an architect would plan a building. No detail was too small.

However, Michel Richard wasn’t content being solely a pastry chef and launched into the world of being a full restaurateur. His first rave restaurant, Citrus, opened in 1987.  It was located Los Angeles, where celebrities and all of the “in” and trendy folks, were clamoring for reservations. He met with such success that he used his name on nine restaurants and quickly discovered he didn’t like the life of a parachute entrepreneur.

He started closing the restaurants and permanently settled in the Nation’s Capital concentrating on Citronelle, a 120-seat restaurant where the décor is conducive to savoring fine food and enjoying a romantic evening or closing or celebrating that very important business deal. At any meal, the restaurant draws its quotient of stars from Congress, the Diplomatic Corps and some of Washington’s rich and famous. Then there are the clients who save up to eat the food of the “master” or “Maestro” as he’s known to some.   Michel plans to give cooking classes but it’s hard to imagine when he’d have the time.  I’d certainly sign up to be exposed to even an iota of his creativity and talent.

He’s been the recipient of the James Beard Award and Wine expert Robert Parker anointed him “A great chef, who is cooking at a level that far exceeds any Michelin three-star chef in France.” Having reviewed countless restaurants for Bonjour Paris,     I’d have to agree.

The reality is that this man is a cook and is only happy when he can experiment in a kitchen. His creativity knows no bounds and he and his sommelier Mark Slater, take special pride in the pairing of wines and food. The restaurant’s cellar has more than 8000 bottles from approximately 300 vintners.

Only open for dinner, men are required to wear jackets and people come anticipating a special foray into one chef’s interpretation of the best food. Michel Richard is experimental without pushing the envelope so diners have no idea what they’re eating.
If you’ve hit the jackpot, reserve the chef’s table that accommodates a maximum of eight people. It may be in the kitchen but you’ll have Michel Richard’s full attention. When it comes to food, I couldn’t imagine anything better.

Citronelle
3000 M Street, NW
Washington, DC 20007
202-625-2150
Relais & Chateaux

© Karen Fawcett
Bonjour Paris

It’s been an ongoing battle about how to bring your canine and feline “children” into the EU and not have to have them sit in quarantine because they haven’t been guaranteed 100% rabies free.

The Brits have been the strictest of all, so much so that Liz Taylor and Richard Burton (husband #five and six – out of eight) were forced to charter a yacht so their beloved, much spoiled dogs wouldn’t be separated from their masters, while the tempestuous duo was filming in the Queen’s territory.

The laws have changed over the years. The definitive site for now is: www.Defra.gov.uk, which lists the strictest rules, so there is less chance for oversight on your part, hence, problems.

Be sure to keep checking here frequently, since laws and regulations constantly change and you don’t want to get stuck leaving animal family member(s) behind – - something that recurrently happens  when people are transferred from one country to another.   Defra addresses the regulations regarding all types of animals, as well as produce.

To make it short and sweet, the following is required so your four legged critters can have their own EU marine blue passports complete with the circle of tiny yellow stars!

All animals must have readable micro-chips implanted in the neck area to verify that you’re not trying to bring a stray into the EU with phony papers. These chips are also a good idea in any case your animal should wander. When/ if they are found, the animals can be scanned and vets can access precise identification regarding the owner.

Rabies shots are mandatory; six weeks after they are administered, animals are required to undergo a blood test (just a prick of the paw) affirming the vaccine was potent enough to take. You’d be surprised how many animals flunk this test and have to start again from the get-go. Until the blood test comes back clear and clean, documenting the animal is rabies-free, your animal won’t be permitted to enter the EU.

Make certain you don’t miss any shots. If you do, the previous vet visits and dollars/ Euros (and other currencies) you’ve gone through to get your sweet creature EU ready will be for naught.  Only a few labs have the monopolies to do the blood analysis, so expect the investment to be considerable.

Within ten days of leaving one country for another, the animal must be examined by a local veterinarian and given a clean bill of health. Remember to do this coming and going. If you forget to go through the same routine on the return voyage, you’ll be required to wait until a vet in that country can perform a health examination.  This may take days and cause avoidable frustration.

Some people don’t mind sending animal to kennels – or camp.   I happen to be one who does and, since I plan to be away for more than a month, wouldn’t want to miss my cat’s creature companionship. Our Kitty has just made her maiden transatlantic voyage for which we were charged 90 Euros each way. I’m lobbying she should have her own frequent flyer number but suspect I’m going to lose out on that battle.  I might not have brought her with me to the US had she not been able to ride in the cabin. Kitty (or Voila – as she was named by a dear friend — since her appearance was unexpected and unwelcome) didn’t make a peep.

No one was aware she was onboard. She didn’t even request a drink (but I requested ice chips for her to curb any dehydration), which is more than I can say about some of the passengers who were feeling no pain. – much to the chagrin of the flight staff who were threatening to turn the plane around since two people were drinking booze they had brought on the plane and ultimately had to be restrained.  Drinking liquor that hasn’t been purchased from the flight attendants is highly illegal and these two men (who might have been undergoing alcohol and/or drug detox) were met upon arrival by a dozen police and airline officials.

I suspect they didn’t make it through customs. But, Kitty had zero problems and is now learning there’s a world outside of France. For a while that is ….

Do you worry  about travel insurance and its intricacies?  People want to know about the following:  trip cancellation coverage (for myriad reasons), what if they become sick while traveling, repatriation insurance (you can’t blame someone for wanting to be home if struck by a major illness) and/or insurance coverage if they’re too ill to be transported home. These questions are just the tip of the iceberg.

If you think there are easy answers, try Googling “trip insurance.” You’ll be amazed by the number (more than 50,000) of Internet Sites that pop up. Some policies are clearly better than others — it’s a question of defining your specific needs.

If you’re a road warrior, it’s probable your employer has a blanket insurance policy. If not, before signing the contract, stipulate that you require it in your benefits’ package. Travel insurance is not a perk; rather, it’s a necessity; read the fine print. You don’t want to be stuck in a country where the medical facilities are less than optimal only to find out you’re not covered for any and all situations. Giving your all for your job is one thing; dying is another.

If travelers become sick – and I don’t mean a cold — will the policy: pay for hospital costs abroad; transport for a family member to be with them; upgrade patients from tourist class to business class, if indicated, once they’ve recuperated and are well enough to return home? One friend recently broke his leg while vacationing in New Zealand and was required to have immediate surgery then and there. The insurance policy not only paid for an airline upgrade, but for a nurse to accompany his wife and him back to the U.S.  The company took care of all of the arrangements and the nurse ran interference at airports, insuring wheelchairs and porters were on hand to expedite the New Zealand – Washington, DC voyage.  When someone is in medical extremis, it shouldn’t be expected that the person or the family can anticipate all of the factors entailed in such a trip.
The insurance was expensive but cost nothing compared to what AIG (American International Group) had to fork over to get the patient home. In addition, it paid for their having to prolong a trip that certainly didn’t end up as a vacation.

If doctors in your country of residence, as well as the country you are visiting, all agree you’re too sick to be moved and the operation must to be done ASAP, will the insurance policy cover the cost of the surgery without your being out-of-pocket until you do the paperwork?  If you’re in a place where medical facilities aren’t adequate, can you be jetted to the closest first-rate medical center?  If you’re forced to miss work, will you receive any compensation?

Some issues to consider before enrolling (and we cannot stress enough, again: read the fine print!):

• Do you need trip insurance for one trip or for multiple ones?  Your answer to this will dictate what type of policy is needed.
• Are you traveling as an individual or as a family?
• Do you need trip insurance if you get sick before the trip; or if a member of your family (such as a parent) falls ill or whose physical situation deteriorates?
• If you’re over a certain age (75 is usually the cut-off), travel insurance will cost substantially more and undoubtedly will require a physical exam. Pre-existing conditions may be excluded. You’ll find you’re paying a lot of money in the event you break your leg. Buyer beware.
• Will you be in a country for more than a month and require quasi-expat insurance?  Will the insurance company pay for translation service and/or send you abroad with a medical dossier?
• Are you insured for evacuation in the event of a terrorist threat?
• Under what conditions, will and won’t a medical jet land in specific countries?

Where and how to find insurance:

Check with your credit card company(ies) and see what’s included if you buy a plane ticket using a specific card.  For example, Starwood Platinum American Express charges those who have enrolled in its insurance program a fee that covers insurance situations and pays a hefty premium in the event of death.  This holds true when renting a car.

Study your existing medical policy and see what it includes (and does not include) if you’re out of the country. Ditto for your car insurance coverage.

Credit cards offer myriad premiums –it’s worth a call to the issuing company; and, yes, again, read the fine print on the flyers that many people toss in the trash which accompany newly issued pieces of plastic.

If you’re reserving via a booking service or travel agency, many offer cancellation policies and/or trip insurance.  It’s another way of generating income and, if needed, is a blessing.

Three recommended insurance sites are:
Med Jet Assist
AllTripProtection.com
MediBroker

I keep a Med Jet Assist policy going at all times. I hope I’ll never have to make use of it. But it’s cheap considering the peace of mind it creates.

Power breakfasts have been around for a long time in the US. But in France, they’re a relatively new phenomenon which is growing as people are trying to fit more into the workday. Even very elegant breakfasts take less time and cost less than lunch in a comparable restaurant. For one, there’s (usually) no booze. Plus, this is a stellar way for women alone to entertain and/or conduct business. It’s hard to “get in trouble” after breakfast unless it’s the beginning of a romantic day!

When extremely senior French business executives and clients used to meet, more than likely they’d opt for lavish lunches.  Those were the days when people felt they had three hours to sit and savor sumptuous meals accompanied by panache of wines and possibly a digestif. You’ll still see plenty of over-the-top business lunches in Paris’s very best restaurants. But that’s usually when people are into negotiating the final intricacies of a contract or sealing a deal. And even though wine consumption is dramatically down in France, working after extended lunches presents its own challenges.

Now, classy breakfasts are becoming more accepted in the world of Paris “let’s do” business. An executive confided that breakfast is a more expedient way of deciding whether or not there’s business to be done. Gerard said, “Drinks after work may be tricky – most especially if the person isn’t from Paris. At a certain hour, it may be problematic if you have to invite the person to dinner. You may want to if you smell potential business. But if you have other plans, it’s awkward.”

So for “impress you – impress me” breakfasts, here are a few suggestions:

Please note: all of the dining rooms have enough space between tables so if you want to do something “vulgar such as discussing money,” you can do it in privacy.  You’re paying not only for the breakfasts but for the ambiance and the training of the waiters in discretion.

Plan on paying approximately 35 Euros (for a continental breakfast) or more (40-50 Euros) if your guests eat a full American breakfast.  Naturally, you can opt for a champagne breakfast (a specialty at the Ritz) but there goes the budget.  Prices vary from one place to another but factor in that you won’t have to pay two Euros for the International Herald Tribune and more than likely, there are complementary issues of the Financial Times.

Hotel De Crillon: Les Ambassadeurs’ refined cuisine is prepared by one of greatest chefs in France, Jean-Francoise Piège. The dining room is nothing less than palatial; a mini-Versailles with a lighter touch. Round tables facilitate conversations and there’s nothing wrong in contemplating a business proposition with a view of the Concorde and the Assemblée Nationale
http://www.crillon.com/crillon.html

The Hotel Plaza Athénée pays special homage to breakfast.  Its pastry team, headed by the ‘2005 World Pastry Champion’ Chef Christophe Michalak,   prepares homemade pastries such as the Kugelhopf and sugar tarts to accompany coffee, tea or hot chocolate. As is true in all of the palace hotel/restaurants, you can opt for a continental breakfast or an American one which includes items such as eggs and more.
http://eng.plaza-athenee-paris.com/

The Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris is another grand hotel that makes a statement. No one can help but be impressed by any meal here and breakfast is no exception. The hotel’s flowers are some of the most beautiful in the world and have set a new standard in floral arrangements. Le Cinq (a 3* Michelin restaurant) is clearly another room that shimmers as if you’re in a palace. Steps away from the Champs-Elysées, it’s conveniently located for business (or pleasure)http://www.fourseasons.com/paris/

Walk into the Hotel Meurice from the Rue Rivoli and you’ll know you’re in Paris as you overlook the Tuileries Gardens and have a glimpse of the Ferris wheel.  Besides being one of the most elegant dining rooms in the City of Light, the breakfast is as memorable as the décor. Be prepared to be pampered and given enough space to do business in privacy.
http://www.meuricehotel.com/uk/navigation.htm

Meet me at the Ritz has a certain je ne sais pas quoi. The Espadon Restaurant has entertained the crème de la crème and them some. Sitting under the trompe l’oeil ceiling of this dramatic dining room can make anyone feel powerful or for that matter, glamorous.  This may be the right ambience for discussing a make or break deal – or a potential romance.  If it’s not a go, you can walk around the Place Vendome for added inspiration.
http://www.ritz.com/home_ritz/home_ritz.asp?show_all=1

Hotel Le Bristol, most especially the winter dining room, reeks power.
Located on the Rue Faubourg St-Honoré, a stone’s throw from the Elysée Palace (the President’s home), don’t be surprised if you see politicians and high flying business types immersed in heavy conversation. Some hotel guests are such regulars that the hotel’s operators act as their personal assistants tracking the regulars’ comings and goings.
http://www.hotel-bristol.com/default.htm

The Hilton Arc de Triomphe Paris is the newcomer on the scene. Many business people and others stay here. Just a short walk from the Champs Elysées, it’s a convenient stop for people who want to be sure they’ll have access to business services and be in a central part of the city. The Safran restaurant offers a breakfast where you’ll spot diners from all countries reviewing papers while (rather, if) they’re eating Eggs Benedict. The hotel has extensive conference facilities so if you’re meeting bound.
http://www.hilton-paris.com/arcdetriomphe/index.html

If you’re looking for a less formal meeting place, consider the Les Orchidées at the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme. It’s an open space lounge located in the center of the hotel. The décor is modern and the room is spacious with seating areas composed of sofas and chairs covered in sumptuous custom designed silk and cotton chenille fabrics.  It’s a good place for an exploratory business rendezvous.  If you’re a lover of modern design, this may well be the hotel for you.
http://paris.vendome.hyatt.com/

If you want to experience a Parisian institution, all you need to do is walk into the lobby of the Hotel Raphael that was built in 1925. It has been a favorite among the French who appreciate the tradition of this family owned hotel; something that’s rare in these days of chain hotels. The dining room is very elegant and the food is considered comme il faut. Expect to see many regulars since some people eat there each week day – and have been doing so for years.
http://www.raphael-hotel.com/uk/navigation.htm

So what do others do who aren’t indulging in “power breakfasts”? Before heading to work, many grab a café at the bar next to their offices for a last minute caffeine fix. More likely than not, they’ll stand at the bar. The morning routine is pretty much the same. They walk into the bar, shake hands with the person manning it, a coffee is placed in front of him or her and money is left on the counter. They might eat a croissant or a tartine (a piece of baguette with a smear of butter but rarely anything else.

The money is rung up by the person manning the cash register. More likely than not, it’s a woman.  This certainly isn’t conducive to conversation about anything meaningful and frequently, you get a tobacco fix (whether you’re smoking or not) since many offices have the non-smoking mandate. And off they go to work.

One of the most frequent questions Bonjour Paris readers pose is what they should pack when traveling. There are no hard and fast rules except that less is better. And that takes substantially more planning. If you’re able to survive with a carry-on suitcase, (and do check the airline’s specific regulations), traveling is, hands down, easier. Consider the following scenarios:

1. Your baggage is lost;
2. Air-handlers are on strike;
3. You have a tight connection;
4. It’s impossible to get a porter or even a chariot (cart);
5. Hopping on and off trains is much easier if you’re not overburdened;
6. Hearing the conductor announce that when you stop you have only two minutes to disembark, can strike fear in a loaded-down travelers’ heart. It can look like a Marx Brothers’ replay as passengers toss suitcases from the train onto the quai in a race against time.

In order to be efficient, you need to plan ahead:

If you’re Paris-bound, don’t count on the weather. With the exception of summer months, pack a set of silk underwear that can be worn under everything. It takes no space in suitcases, and is often a blessing when the chill factor sets in.

Assemble a “mix and match” wardrobe. Each item should coordinate with the others, to be dressed up and down. Squelch the urge to pack a knockout dress that can only be worn once.

Select clothes you know and love and ones that don’t wrinkle. Although you can always borrow an iron (or have items pressed), there are so many “travel-perfect” clothes being manufactured these days. If you’re a frequent traveler, they’re worth the investment.  Bonjour Paris highly recommends the clothes offered from Magellan.

Color coordination is essential. For women, it means wearing the same shade of clothes with a few accents. I’m always comfortable in black or beige. A city wardrobe can consist of two skirts or dressy pants, a pair of casual pants, a jacket to be worn with all of the above, and three shirts or sweaters which can be made to look dressy with different costume jewelry or patterned silk scarves.

I always wear a colored shawl over the coat that I wear on the plane.

Pack a small fold-up umbrella. More than likely, it will come in handy.

Men are less “packing challenged.” If they’re traveling on business, one dark suit is invariably enough. Add a navy blazer, a pair or two of gray pants, three dress shirts, plus a couple of casual ones, and call it a day.

When it comes to shoes, it’s not a good idea to buy new ones unless you’ve had sufficient time to break them in. There’s nothing more miserable than not being able to walk.  Bring a maximum of three pairs: a pair of casual ones, good walking shoes and a dressy pair for evenings.  Wear the heaviest ones on the plane.

Many people pack more underwear than they’ll ever need. Bring three pairs of light ones that dry quickly. You can wash them and hang them in your bathroom overnight. You don’t need to sport detergent. The hotel bath gels do the job. Ditto when it comes to nightgowns, robes and pajamas. If you’re staying in hotels, check to see whether or not they offer robes.

Another suggestion:  Invest in a selection of different colored plastic bags. Pack your “essentials” here.  They can be squeezed into a suitcase and identified at a moment’s notice. If you’re running short, use every-day plastic kitchen bags as a supplement.

Not having to grope for socks and/or stockings, underwear, ties or scarves, medications, bathroom amenities, etc., facilitates unpacking and makes life more orderly.

The choice of a suitcase is another consideration. Hard-sided ones with rollers have been extremely popular. But they’re not as flexible and weigh more before placing an item inside them. Recently a new variety of duffle bags with rollers has come out, and they are definitely worth a look-see.  They are more pliable when it comes to fitting into an airline’s overhead bin.  But do clothes end up more wrinkled?

Some people swear rolling clothes is the way to go. Others, most especially men, swear that method spells disaster.  You might want to include a (light) travel iron in your suitcase to be on the safe side.

For serious packers, pack two days before your departure and resist the urge to stuff anything more in the suitcase.  That’s the real challenge!

In spite of being president of a website about France, it would be a lie if I said there weren’t times I have a hankering to hear English being spoken all around me. Not that I necessarily understand the “Queen’s” English but not everyone’s perfect. It’s nice to go to the theater and take a walk in Hyde Park, hit Fortnum and Mason, visit the “old Tate,” the British Museum and wander in and out of the Mews that evoke twinges of nostalgia for Boston.

Last weekend, I climbed aboard the Eurostar between the two cities. Passengers need to remember to bring passports since they’re traveling across two countries’ borders. This feels somewhat strange since the train ride takes only 2 hours and 40 minutes. But as the train races along, you’ll see definite changes in scenery within France and once you cross through the “Chunnel.”   Looking out the window gives an abbreviated bird’s eye view of how different the neighboring countries are when it comes to housing, agriculture and scenery.

The trip will be 20 minutes less when the new UK terminal opens in 2007. To buy a ticket, access:  Rail Europe There are so many options when it comes to tickets (the same as planes) but if you choose to spoil yourself and travel business-premier, you’ll be served a full meal at your seat. You can even specify the menu in advance if you have special dietary needs or preferences. If you’re holding a rail pass, you can travel throughout the EU for a fraction of what it costs were you buying individual tickets.

Arriving in London always comprises an element of culture shock. Climbing into the ever so British traditionally black (or sometimes, covered by ads) cabs, that are being modified to conform to EU emission standards, makes visitors realize that life in London isn’t cheap unless they use public transport. All taxis accept credit cards as if the drivers are accustomed to hearing people gasp at the last click of the meter. And if you don’t immediately adopt the habit of looking in both directions of the road, you could be dead before you arrive at the hotel to check-in.

But one doesn’t pull up to the ever so elegant The Dorchester trailing luggage behind you. Guests have to make the right appearance since this is one of London’s extremely elegant palace hotels. It’s the type of place people gravitate if they’re doing big-bang deals or want to see and be seen.

The rooms (with the exception of the top floor where the bigger-than-life roof deck suites are situated) have been redone with taste and elegance. Some of the public areas are still in the process of being renovated. But the work is slated to be finished by the end of the year.

Renovation is quietly taking place and the Dorchester will have a new super-ritzy spa in addition to a new bar and a tres chic store within the complex. In the meantime, guests luxuriate in the lobby where breakfast is served (the smoked salmon is some of the best ever and a relative bargain at 13 pounds) to high tea and cocktails.  The atrium/lobby (with its comfortable banquette seating) attracts people from all over the world in addition to neighbors who wouldn’t let a day go by, when they’re in Mayfair, without stopping by for a cup of tea or one thing or another. During breakfast, I sat next to a woman who religiously comes to the Dorchester for her breakfast kippers once a week.

The Grill dining room has been renovated. It’s very red and reminscent of King Arthur’s Knights. People may not love the décor but hey do love the standing rib roast and Yorkshire pudding…..served from a silver trolley and ever so traditionally British.

The rooms are glorious and large. If your taste runs to elegant chintz, contrasting upholstery and conservative and yet not stuffy décor, you’ll like it here. There are patterns on top of patterns but none are the “in your face – the decorator was here spending billions.” The hotel’s design wreaks tradition and cabinetry that weren’t retrofitted circa yesterday. Rather, it has been lovingly restored from when the property was converted into a hotel 75 years ago.

Enough details about the hotel.  What type of people stay here?  Nigel Bolding, Director of “The World’s Best Hotels” says that people are traveling more and demanding higher levels of service as well as accommodations. This is especially true of business travelers who can’t take the chance things will go wrong when they’re conducting business. The number one request among business travelers is requiring high-speed Internet. My guess would have been gym facilities but no. And it’s not as if you can jog everyday in London.

Bolding explained there’s a new influx of rich clients to go around. Russians and people from other countries have and spend money when they travel. This is certainly true for the Japanese and Americans aren’t bad when it comes to dropping big bucks. It’s not as if many New York City hotels are actually cheap.

Studies have been done showing that people spend a larger proportion of their incomes traveling and the trend is definitely on the rise. 2006 appears to be the year that Italy will win the tourist tally  – but that could change since so many bookings are being done on-line via the Internet and people aren’t planning anywhere as near as far ahead as they used to in the past.

What’s essential is that people are traveling and seeing different parts of the world and it’s becoming easier to go from one country to another without spending days in transit.

Get up and go — and you don’t have to stay in a “palace” hotel even though it’s nice!

Close your eyes as you board the hotel’s launch and after a 15-minute ride across the Straits of Malacca. When the launch arrives you’ll feel as if you’ve landed on heaven on earth. The Pangkor Laut Resort is located on a private island off the west coast of the Malaysian Peninsula. Although it may be a long way to travel to experience nirvana, once you’ve arrived, you’ll know it was worth the journey.

The Pangkor Laut Resort has won every award in the travel industry and they’re merited. There’s something for everyone. Some choose it as the ultimate spa vacation; for others it’s a Buddhist retreat where they go to get in touch with their spirituality; others are taken with its many aspects of nature and spend the days walking and exploring. Others simply enjoy being spoiled and consider it the vacation of a lifetime.  If they live in that part of the world, they return repeatedly since it’s impossible to be bored at the 300-acre resort that initially opened in 1993. Even though it’s one island and one resort, no one departs feeling identically. It’s impossible to board the returning launch without leaving a bit of your soul at Pangkor Laut and taking away some of its enigmatic beauty.

For those in the market, you can even get married at Pangkor Laut.  When I visited, a wedding was taking place. The radiant bride and groom and friends and family members flew in from the U.K for the occasion. It was a spectacularly beautiful ceremony where vows were exchanged as the sun was going down. The hotel had arranged for everything to be picture-perfect and even for the minister who officiated. Couples can obtain wedding licenses within a day so this is the ideal location for a destination wedding.  If the couple were to decide to divorce, where could it be better to make the break legal?

In spite of being one resort, there’s nothing homogenous about the getaway. There are 126 deluxe villas and suites on the main but the settings are so different that you could be on a different island albeit the view of the vibrant emerald green water that’s surrounded by a coastal fringe of palm trees and low vegetation.  All of the materials used in the villas are natural and indigenous to the area – from the wood to the fabrics.

Depending on your mood, you have the choice of twenty-one Sea Villas which are perched on stilts; Beach Villas have private outdoor bathtubs; Garden and/or Hill Villas are selectively placed throughout the property subtlety blending in with its tropical environment.

I stayed in one of the 22 Spa Villas. No matter the time of day, I was continually overwhelmed by the beauty of the interior design. It was sumptuous in an elegant and understated way. After a day of various therapies from all parts of Asia, I felt so relaxed and rejuvenated that I’d return to the room and listen to tranquil music emanating from a CD player before falling asleep either on the king-size bed or on the chaise overlooking the water. This island isn’t a place where you’ll find televisions or high-speed Internet connections. It reeks of tranquility — it even feels out of place to speak much above a whisper. Each day, guests are given batik sarongs to wear from their air-conditioned temporary home to the spa area. Evening temperatures cooled down so the room’s plantation fan more than did the job as I felt the bay’s breezes.

Spa – did I say spa?  People can always find massages but the treatments at Pangkor Laut are more of a healing process. All of my aches and pains were addressed. I met with a Chinese physician at the Ayurvetic Hut; he looked into my eyes, took my pulse and asked questions and subsequently prescribed treatments which he felt would be appropriate for me. I happen to love hot stones and could have extended the two-hour-long massage that included herbal steaming, a Malay-style whirlpool that was strewn with flower petals. Afterwards, my body was caressed with oils (I chose the lemon one) and would gravitate to the Yoga Pavilion where I would meditate and stretch. Each spa treatment began and ended with a cup of tea served on a tray accented by perhaps, a single blossom.

For the more active, there’s a fitness center, tennis and squash courts (wear white please), swimming pools, a water sports center where guests can sign up for sailing, water skiing, fishing and more.  There are water and land excursions.

For the fitness crowd, there are three jungle treks from which to choose that meander through 350 acres of forest. Don’t be surprised if you encounter a snake. I was assured that snakes are more afraid of me than vice versa. However, I opted to take the chauffeured golf carts between longer destinations. I’m terrified of snakes and didn’t want to meet one or the on-site doctor.

What would a resort such as this be without restaurants varying from extremely casual to more formal?  The five restaurants offered different cuisine. I especially liked the Fisherman’s Cove that specialized in seafood that is fished daily from local waters.

Would I return?  In a heart beat. I have a “significant birthday” approaching in a couple of years and hope I’ll have enough money to rent the private complex that is composed of three bedrooms, a living area, a dining room , a private pool – not to mention a personal butler.  I’d want my family to come and celebrate and experience the beauty of this oasis.

It’s a dream — but one about which I’d like to fantasize and will until I return.

http://www.pangkorlautresort.com/

I should have been raised in a hotel. I would have been the consummate Eloise at the Plaza. I’ve met a lot of hotels I haven’t liked. But then, there’ve been the hotels I’ve loved — and London’s 51 Buckingham Gate would more than qualify. It has something for everyone: location, charm, comfort and intimacy. It essentially feels like a club.

Big hotels aren’t my thing. Invariably, I get lost in the corridors, and I hate hotels which resemble railroad stations, where guests feel as if they need to take numbers to check in or out. I cherish my privacy and don’t necessarily care having other guests keeping track of my comings and goings. However, the same doesn’t apply for the hotel’s staff members. I love being spoiled by them in an understated fashion.

Understated has a very special connotation for me. It signifies niceties such as having the room cleaned when I duck out for a couple of hours, half-used bottles of shampoo replenished and hotel concierges offering me directions without my having to ask. I appreciate being presented with a cup of tea when I return to the hotel looking frazzled. Perhaps I’m spoiled but I love evening turn-down service. So many hotels have put a stop to this luxury.

During visits to the United Kingdom, I’m invariably surprised. After all, English is our common language, but Americans are lingo-challenged. And, there’s no question that manners and customs are different and in many ways more formal. The British are simply different.

I should clarify that I’m an American who chooses to live in Paris. I arrived in the ‘City of Light’ seventeen years ago, on a six-month assignment, and never permanently returned to the US. I frequently go to Washington, DC because I have family there. I travel enough that I’m never quite certain where to set my inner time-zone clock.

On this trip, my departure city was the Nation’s Capital.   The British Airways Washington-to-London flight takes less than seven hours, so crossing the Atlantic feels like a proverbial snap once strapped in my airplane seat. For me, every trip is an adventure because I suffer from perpetual wander lust. Architecture may remain constant, but time never stands still. I’m always amazed by visible changes and trends wherever and whenever I travel.

Not long after clearing customs at Heathrow Airport, the driver pulled into the courtyard of 51 Buckingham Gate, less than five minutes from Buckingham Palace. The massive black wrought-iron gate protects the enclave and gives the entrance a regal appearance. In the center area, there’s a charming small garden that changes according to the season. There’s a story about the courtyard but you’ll have to ask.

Smiling staff members were on hand, and my luggage disappeared. I was handed a magnetic card to the room, attached to a black-and-silver key ring with the number 51. Little did I know that the key ring would be my checkout gift.

I was eager to go my room in the Kings section, one of the three restored buildings, which are striking examples of Edwardian and Victorian architecture. Former town houses, they were converted to long-term rental apartments and luxury suites by the Taj Group, which owns and manages a chain of luxurious hotels in India. The group decided to expand and make this property its London showcase.

Bernard de Villele became the hotel general manager in 1999 and converted the circa 1897 buildings into a five-star jewel of a retreat. This man doesn’t suffer incompetence, and although he’s usually onsite at 51 Buckingham Gate doing inspection tours, (you imagine he wears white gloves and has eyes behind his head), M. de Villele has been made Vice-president of Business Development & Operations for Europe and the Americas. He’s developed a stable crew of team members who know the clients and vice-versa. So many guests are repeat visitors because of the special environment, reception and attention they receive.

Prior to my arrival, I had requested soft down pillows. They were waiting and I fell into a profound sleep. I would have spent the day in bed if it weren’t for the guilt factor. The decor was stunning, and the living room had breathtaking flowers cascading out of a shopping bag from the chic Fleur Couture in the equally chic Mayfair area. The bedroom’s incredibly comfortable king-size bed was covered with a 100% down duvet with an Egyptian 600-thread count cotton cover and a bedspread that was nothing less than sumptuous. I’m a beige person, and I admired the suite’s clean design, which used modern furniture with subtle and never jarring color accents.

Rather than rooms, guest accommodations (82 in all) range from junior suites to four-bedroom residences, with full kitchens that are perfect for those who want to have champagne and goodies without leaving the inner sanctum.  Each suite’s kitchen includes a mini-dishwasher and combination washer/dryer. There’s also a DVD and a CD player, a printer/fax machine, a private telephone number with voicemail. All of the accommodations have data-ports but if you’re a computer addict, rooms are equipped with a high-speed or WiFi modem connection. Oh, and yes, there’s a safe in every room.

The beige marble bathrooms have high-tech elements and a tub and separate shower stall. I showered using the Molton Brown bath amenities. I crawled into bed before my hit-the-road wake up call. There was so much to see in so little time.

For those who desire service equivalent to what you’d experience were you a guest at The Buckingham Palace, book an Ivor Spencer suite. You’ll have a personal butler for sixteen hours a day who’ll do everything required to make your trip stress-free. A limousine will be awaiting you at the airport, your suitcases unpacked, your bath drawn, dinner reservations and/or business needs will be attended to, always with the utmost of competence. If you’d like to have a private dinner served in your suite, all you have to do is ask.  The meal will be served on Wedgwood China and Villeroy and Boch crystal. If you want special activities to be arranged for your traveling companion, don’t hesitate to ask. That’s all part of these rarified butlers’ jobs.

I didn’t ask, but I suspect you can request to be tucked into bed. I wouldn’t be in the least bit shocked if more than a few guests had taken advantage of that service. After a long dinner including champagne, wines and cognac, it wouldn’t come as a surprise. Don’t be surprised if you spy a rock star or a head of state at 51 Buckingham Gate.

I certainly didn’t require this type of attention. Each time I returned from an outing, a goodie was waiting to welcome me. Tea sandwiches, cookies, chocolate strawberries and a box of chocolates from the French Z-chocolat.com were just a few of the surprises in case I’d worked up a hunger while out on the town.

The first day was supposedly easy. After a buffet lunch in the hotel’s library, where you can always order something to eat, including a four tier silver tray of delectable sandwiches and different pastries for “high tea,” we set out to see London from on high. It was our second flight of the day as we climbed aboard the British Airway London Eye, a 450-foot monster Ferris wheel built for the millennium celebrations but held over by popular demand. Thirty-two glass capsules, each holding as many as 25 passengers, rotate for 30 minutes. During that time, passengers have privileged views of the Thames River and buildings and gardens rarely seen from the ground. It’s worth buying the guidebook in order to know what you’re seeing from this perspective.

Off we went to Fortnum & Mason, purveyor to many royal families over the years. There are a lot of gourmet markets, but Fortnum’s is an experience unto itself. Food sales are so brisk that the store is closing other departments because, when all is said and done, what’s better than gourmet indulgences?

I happily fantasized about spending a vacation in the hotel suite, reading, relaxing, and eating caviar and smoked salmon and other delicacies while living in the lap of luxury. The chocolate section is so vast that Fortnum’s has a dedicated buyer who spends her life traveling the world and assembling the most extensive chocolate collection anywhere. The chocolate buyer’s apartment is climate-controlled to accommodate chocolate tastings. And she is skinny as a rail.  Don’t think this was an easy job to land. There were more than 450 qualified candidates!

Returning to the hotel, I was booked to have a massage in the spa. After an hour-long treatment, I emerged feeling like a new person. Any jet lag had dissipated, and I was rejuvenated to go onward and upward. Well, almost.

What’s a London weekend without eating, sightseeing, shopping and lots of walking? During the weekend, I took a look-see into Buckingham Palace; the Victoria & Albert Museum; and the Tate Modern, the former Bankside Power Station, which was converted into a museum of international modern art. There are critics who feel more strongly about the museum’s architecture than its exhibits.

One of the highlights of my visit was a tour of the Royal Opera House Covent Garden. Seeing backstage, costume rooms and dance rehearsal halls gives the performing arts a new meaning. The Covent Hall has an excellent restaurant that is crowded at dinner but not at lunch, and the food is lovely. Once a month, there’s a tea dance where participants dance up a storm. Some of the women jitterbugged, wearing dresses and hats from the ’50s. Dapper men waited their turns to ask women to take a swirl on the dance floor, accompanied by big-band musicians.

I had visited the British Museum and so many other cultural landmarks. I’d done my fair share of shopping in London. But, I had never thought of London as a culinary-market town. How wrong I was. Since its opening in 1999, the Borough Market near Southwark Cathedral (subway stop is London Bridge) is worth a visit Friday and Saturday mornings. Many of London’s finest chefs can be spotted here, in addition to food aficionados. Gourmet selections are widespread, and many vendors have gone organic — even organic baby food.

Every market worldwide has its own style of displaying products that invariably gives insights into the region’s culture. If you’re a foodie, don’t miss this market, which won the 2003 London Tourism Award as being the best “London experience.”  It was cold and raining when we left the market, so we sought refuge in the nearest pub, where numerous beers were on tap and bangers and mash — sausage and mashed potatoes — on the menu.

Speaking of food, all those years of thinking London had a dearth of good restaurants, are best forgotten. The city is full of top-notch eateries serving sophisticated and excellent food. The Bank Westminster Restaurant offers light and tasty bistro food in elegant and sleekly modern surroundings. Its bar, the Zander Bar (all of 140 meters long), is one of the places to see and be seen, especially if you’re young and hip. There are also seating areas should you tire of bar stools. If you’re noise-sensitive, this is not the place for you, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, when the music is blaring away.

The 51 Buckingham Gate complex also has a very good French bistro (aptly named Bistro 52) that serves classic French and British fare in an informal setting. If you’re into Indian food, Quinlon, the sister restaurant of the renowned Bombay Brasserie, is the “in” place in London to eat South Indian coastal cuisine.

There were so many places where we could have eaten but didn’t. One night, we were guests at a private dinner guided by wine expert Hugo Dunn-Meynell. Wine and food are not to be taken lightly, and Mr. Dunn-Meynell enlightened the group on which wines were compatible with various foods. Much to our surprise, they weren’t necessarily the ones we had predicted.

A trip to London wouldn’t be complete without a walk in Hyde Park. After our share of such exercise, we returned to the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park for tea and scones. Tea is served in the hotel’s dining room, which opens onto one of the most verdant views in the city. If you’re watching for more than a few minutes, you might well see a parade of horses being ridden in perfect formation.

The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park has opened a beautiful spa that transplants guests to Asia. If you’re the ultimate sybarite, you might want to book a series of treatments.

All I wanted was to return to 51 Buckingham Gate. It’s rare when I find a hotel where I’d definitely rather live than in my own home if only I could afford it. I guess I’m not alone in my choice. 51 Buckingham Gate has won the Conde Nast Johansens award for most excellent London hotel.

I have a confession.  I already have my next trip planned to “my home away from home. This time the start and finish destination will be Paris. What a pleasure it’ll be to hop on and off the “Chunnel” that takes just over three hours and there’s only an hour’s time difference. I think I’ll even time my arrival to have lunch in the Harrods’ Food Hall.  I suspect I’ve even take some Stilton cheese back to 51 Buckingham Gate – naturally with a bottle of Port. When in London, do as the natives do!

• • •

51 Buckingham Gate, London SW1E6AF; phone, 44/20-7769-7766; fax, 44/20-7828-5909; www.51-buckinghamgate.com

British Airways London Eye;  www.ba-londoneye.com

Fortnum & Mason  181 Piccadilly, London W1A1ER
www.fortnumandmason.co.uk

Royal Opera House, Covent Garden Piazza
London WC2E9DD
www.royaloperahouse.org

Bank Westminster Restaurant and Zander Bar
45 Buckingham Gate
London, SWIE 6BS
www.bankrestaurants.com.

Many people think I should stay in France overseeing my “baby”, www.bonjourparis.com. The reality is the more I travel, the more I want to hop on a plane and explore the world. And this time, my husband Victor was having none of this, “I’m going on a press trip. See you in a week.” He was adamant that I wasn’t leaving home without him.

I loved having the companionship but worried about certain things.  Victor is 20 years older than I and would he be able to keep up with my pace? The reality is that he did more than fine.  There were times he’d grabbed a nap but I could always work.

Around-the-world trips present special challenges. Had we not just finished one, I’d never have known just how complex and precise the planning has to be. Visiting Paris from the US is a piece of cake compared to circling the world. Next time (and there will be more trips), I’ll use a spread sheet to organize all the components laid out.

First key piece of advice: If you’re going long haul and clocking thousands of miles or doing multiple stops, flying business class is not a luxury. It’ll ensure that you can walk – and stay awake – the next day. Usually it also gives you a more generous baggage allowance and use of airport club lounges (see below). The problem, of course, is the cost.

My husband and I lucked out and found Dave, http://www.ax.imptrav.com/ our new “best friend.”  For less than the cost of flying us west in business class from Paris to San Francisco, he was able to get us there by going in the opposite direction – through India, Cambodia, China and Japan, with LA, Washington and NY thrown in, before returning home to Paris. In other words, around the world.

The fat envelope with tickets arrived on schedule. It provided for thirteen stops, including some intra-country tickets – all in business class and all on major carriers. No trick tickets, changeable dates, valid for a year and yes, we’re earning frequent flyer points.

The only caveat: to save $1600 each, our trip had to originate in Stockholm rather than Paris. The additional tickets from Paris to Stockholm cost $80 each. No big deal. We seized the opportunity and spent the night at the elegant Grand Hotel overlooking the harbor. What are another two hours of air time and a relaxing overnight in a historic hotel?  We were starting our vacation in elegant style.

Dave’s air travel planning service  http://www.ax.imptrav.com/ was impeccable and very personalized. He swears computers help but aren’t essential to his company. Maybe it’s because he started the business when they didn’t exist.

In retrospect, ticketing may be the easy part. I won’t get into reserving hotels now. Just let me say this: that’s part of the fun – or the horror — depending on the places, dates and circumstances, and whether or not you’re the last minute type.

Some major considerations in planning your RTW adventure

Before leaving home:
Be sure to have a list of all of the medications you normally take. If you have any ongoing medical problems, ask you doctor to write a medical summary in the event another doctor needs the information.

Visas. Don’t forget that for some countries they’re still essential. If you require more than one, a visa service is often the way to go. Our current trip required three.  Rather than standing in line at three consulates, we used an expediter that charges a fee for their efforts plus the cost of the visas, etc. But, unless you have unlimited time (not to mention patience) and live in one of the few cities with all the consulates you need, you’ll be glad for the service. The expediter will require your passport, so be prepared to part with it for a minimum of ten days. Be sure to send passports by a tracked shipping service.

Vaccinations. Check which ones are required as soon as you’ve booked your trip, and whether your doctor can do them. Be sure you have them early enough to be effective. Road warriors to developing countries make sure to keep them up to date. It had been a while since I’d been inoculated for polio and Hepatitis B so after my boosters and shots for ominous new diseases, I felt like a pin cushion.

Travel Insurance. Buy repatriation insurance if your company or travel agent doesn’t provide it. If you plan more than a couple of overseas trips a year, it makes sense to buy a one year policy instead of the one-trip version. A year’s repatriation insurance policy costs about $200. It will make sure you don’t get stranded in a place that doesn’t offer the right medical facilities. If needs be you‘ll be flown to a hospital that does, and by a well-staffed medical jet – a sort of flying ambulance. All arrangements (they can be very complicated) and costs are taken care of by the insurer. Keep in mind that features and benefits vary by company and by price level.

Health Kit. You may need one some day – really need it — so you might as well have it with you. During these days of increased health concerns, here’s a list of things you may want to pack (but please check with your doctor and/or consult www.travel.state.gov):

Cipro (a powerful wide-spectrum antibiotic)

Tamiflu (not that you’re planning to kiss any live chickens). Some countries such as Vietnam are pulling it off the open market so that the ten-day treatment can now be administered only by a doctor.

Anti-malaria pills (for Africa and India plus some other countries)

Airborne (an herbal remedy that some people swear by) that allegedly keeps people from getting sick while sitting on plane breathing re-circulated air.

Boroleum (a great ointment to keep nasal passages clear and for superficial cuts and sores)

Anti-Diarrhea medication (a MUST!)

Purell hand sanitizer (1/2 ounce bottles are the easiest to pocket)

Lip balm

Baby Wipes (you’ll be glad you brought them along under so many circumstances…’nuff said).

Some doctors recommend taking packaged syringes from the US or the EU. We didn’t go that far.

Red Tape and Other Aggravations:

Getting to and from airports, clearing security and customs… some airports are clearly better than others when it comes to minimizing bureaucratic hassles. If only airports would standardize methods. But after 9/11, dream on.

Some airports require you have all your baggage x-rayed and given the security officer’s stamp of approval even before arriving at the check-in counter.  If you’re traveling heavy, your back may be aching by the time you get to the front of the security line – especially when it feels as if the word “line” isn’t anyone’s vocabulary. For example, Delhi.

Our first airport in Asia, Delhi, was a nightmare. From the time we hit the ground to when we were greeted (thank God)! by our Taj hotel driver, nearly three hours had gone by. We were extracted from the crowds, relieved of our luggage and rushed into a car where there were hot towels and bottles of cold water waiting. Total chaos as people had to push and shove to get to immigration control. There were no provisions for queues or cops to keep order. While we were in India, numerous outraged letters were printed in the Hindustan Times over the situation the airport. Authorities clearly weren’t anticipating times of high influx. To add to the traffic, this past November two additional non-stop flights – Continental and American — from the US to Delhi were inaugurated.

Airport Lounges:  If you’re flying business or first class, you’ll automatically be presented lounge passes with your boarding tickets. If you’re flying coach, invest in a Priority Pass. Being able to relax or work, have something to drink or just snooze in a quiet place is a godsend especially if there’s a delay, as often happens in developing countries.

Reserving cars to meet you:

I used to think this was an unnecessary extravagance. But if you’re arriving in a country where you speak not one word of the language, a hotel driver greeting and delivering you to the airport and facilitating your check out and can be well worth the extra money. The drivers and the hotel representatives have an on-going relationship with the airline counter personnel. Probably they’ll be able to sneak through a few extra pounds of luggage.

Too Much Luggage … Never again!

Traveling light may not be an option if you’re going to be away for an extended period; or, more specifically, jumping from one climate to another and back again. During this trip, we’ve needed to be dressed for all climates – from tropical to cold-and-snowy, and for social situations from utterly casual to prim and proper. (Thank goodness for silk long underwear and permanent press!)

Another pitfall: If you are traveling to China, Viet Nam, Thailand and other low-cost countries, acquisitive types may not be able to resist the urge to buy.

We ended up doing our gift shopping for the next 22 years — including having to buy an additional mega suitcase to transport all of our treasures.